Friday, February 2, 2018

CAL: Ice Bubble Shawl

by Lena Fedotova (ravliki on Ravelry)

I’ve got a pre-release CAL for my Ice Bubble Shawl starting in just a few days in the Cup of Stitches group on Ravelry!

The pattern will be released by the end of February, but all CAL participants will receive this pattern for free. There is no deadline there; I will be just more than happy to see your finished shawls or your projects in progress.

To join the CAL, please leave a comment in this thread and PM me your e-mail address. You are very welcome to join until Monday, February 5, 2018. The pattern will be sent on Monday.

Monday, January 29, 2018

PATTERN RELEASE: Crosshatched Cowl

by Lena Fedotova (ravliki on Ravelry)

Crosshatched Cowl, originally published in Crochet Now magazine, Issue 7, is now available as an individual pattern download in my pattern store on Ravelry. The pattern has been tweaked a little, updated, and now uses U.S. crochet terminology.

Crosshatched Cowl is a simple textured cowl worked in the round. It features a beautiful and easy stitch pattern that is quick to learn and creates a thick squishy fabric. It is worked in Yarn Stories Fine Merino 4 ply and uses 3 balls in Dove. The hook size is US E (3.5 mm).

The cowl is worked in the diamond stitch pattern which uses front post dc stitches. It is important to work these stitches in a proper way to prevent the fabric from the tightening. There are several different ways to do this:
  • work the front post stitches loosely, pull up a longer loop;
  • work the front post stitches not around the posts of the stitches, but right under their tops;
  • use the front post tr stitches instead of tr stitches.
I prefer the first two options and use them both at the same time; I work FPdc around the tops of the stitches and pull up the loop (which determines the length of the stitch) as long as needed.

You can get Crosshatched cowl pattern for FREE, when you purchase Oliwin, Cherry Jar, or Kafa patterns. If you already purchased any of these patterns in your library, simply add Crosshatched cowl pattern to your cart and the price will be taken off automatically (no coupon code required).

Happy crocheting!

Friday, December 29, 2017


by Lena Fedotova (ravliki on Ravelry)

I am excited to introduce my last crochet pattern for this year, Oliwin!

Oliwin is a casual and cozy everyday sweater worked seamlessly from the top down. It features relaxed shaping at the body, a crew neck with a higher back neck, and sleeves which taper toward the cuff.

I used 100% alpaca in DK weight (175 yards/160 m per 50 g ball) and 4 mm size hook (US G) to achieve soft and comfy result because the textured post stitch pattern worked too tight could make the fabric too dense and heavy.

I marked this project as "difficult" on my project page on Ravelry.

Besides it is worked in the round from the top down and seamlessly, the yoke includes several extra rows worked across the back to create a higher back neck, and the underarm bridges are added before joining the body in the round.

The sleeves taper toward the cuff with the help of the decreases, which are evenly placed along each sleeve. And don't forget about the textured pattern which is being worked at the same time! But the result should please you :)

The sweater is shown in size M with approx. 4''/10 cm positive ease.

  • Oliwin pattern is 50% off price until the end of this year. No coupon code needed, the discount will apply automatically.
Happy crocheting and a Happy New Year!

Wednesday, December 27, 2017

FREE PATTERN: Tunisian Entrelac Motif #6

by Lena Fedotova (ravliki on Ravelry)

The last block Matilda is the most difficult one. It is worked in rows starting from one corner and uses two colors in several rows.

Rialto DK by Debbie Bliss, 100% wool, 105 m per 50 g skein, in shades Ecru, Citrus, Navy, and Pool
Regular crochet hook 4mm
Yarn needle to weave in ends

15 cm x 15 cm

C – color, ch(s) – chain(s), RetP – return pass, sl st – slip stitch, sp(s) – space(s), st(s) – stitch(es), Tss – Tunisian simple stitch, YO – yarn over


START (Beginning Square)
With ะก1, ch 5.

Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook and working in back ridge (bump) of chains, pull up 4 loops (5 loops on hook). RetP: YO and draw through 1 loop on hook, *YO and draw through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * across, leave last loop on hook.
Rows 2–3: Tss in next 4 sts, RetP. 
Bind off: Sl st in next 4 sts. 
Cut yarn and fasten off.


First Square (Top Square) 
With C1, join yarn in last ch of starting ch-5. Ch 4.

Row 1: Working in back ridge (bump), pull up 3 loops across ch and 1 loop from 1st border st (5 loops on hook). RetP (for this and all remaining squares except Last Squares): *YO, draw through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * across, leave last loop on hook. 
Rows 2-3: Tss in next 3 sts, pull up 1 loop from next border st (5 loops on hook), RetP. 
Bind off: Sl st in next 3 sts, sl st in last border st used.

Last Square 

Row 1: Pull up 4 loops from next edge (5 loops on hook). RetP (for this and all remaining Last Squares only): YO and draw through 1 loop on hook, *YO and draw through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * across, leave last loop on hook. 
Rows 2–3: Tss in next 4 sts, RetP. 
Bind off: Sl st in next 4 sts. 
Cut yarn and fasten off.

With C2, join yarn in last ch of starting ch-4. Repeat Top Square instructions.

Second square (Corner Square) 

Row 1: Pull up 3 loops across next edge and 1 loop from first border st of next square, RetP. 
Rows 2-3: Tss in next 3 sts, pull up 1 loop from next border st, RetP. 
Bind off. 
Do not cut yarn.

Last Square 
Repeat Last Square instructions.

With C1, work one Top Square, two Corner Squares and finish with Last Square. Cut yarn and fasten off.

ROWS 5-7
With C1 (for Rows 5 and 7) and C2 (for Row 6), repeat Fourth Row instructions, working 3 (4, 5) Corner Squares for 5 (6, 7) squares in total.

With C1 (for Row 8) and C3 (for Row 9), pull up a loop from left border st of the first square of the previous row. Work 6 (5) Corner Squares per row in total.

ROW 10
With C3, pull up a loop from left border st of the first square of the previous row. Work one Corner Square. Do not cut yarn. Join C2 by pulling a loop through the loop on hook. Tighten C1 loop. With C2 and working over C3 yarn (to bring it closer to its next starting point), work two Corner Squares. Switch to C3 and work one Corner Square.

ROW 11
Repeat Row 10 instructions, working first and last Corner Square in C3 and second Corner Square in C1 for three Corner Squares in total.

ROWS 12-13
With C2 (C3), work 2 (1) Corner Squares.

LAYOUT DIAGRAMS (3x3 motifs)

1. Original motif layout (left). It turns out not very good because the flowers merge with the yellow stripes.

2. The solution is to change the color of that row (right).

3. You can also use a contrast color for the flowers (left).

4. Another option is to turn and rotate motifs and create another spectacular geometric pattern (right).

You can print this post out for personal use or save it as a PDF using the "Print" and "PDF" buttons below. Please do not distribute, sell, or reproduce this pattern in any form. Sharing the link is very welcome!

Happy crocheting!

Sunday, December 24, 2017

FREE PATTERN: Zirka Filet Blanket

by Lena Fedotova (ravliki on Ravelry)

I've got a question on Ravelry if Zirka shawl pattern can be adaptable to a rectangular shape. Zirka is a triangular shawl worked from the bottom up in the filet crochet technique:

There are several possible ways to achieve a rectangular (square) shape in filet crochet.

  • You can start from a corner and crochet a triangle by placing the increases on both sides until you reach the desired width. Then, decrease until you get a square (first picture).
  • You can work in the rounds from the center out until you reach the desired size (center picture).
  • Or you can simply work in rows (last picture).

The first option is perfect for making triangular filet shawls. I love it very much. It features an easy and quick start and allows you to stop as soon as you reach the desired size or until the end of your yarn. 

However, your piece will not (in most cases) be perfectly triangular; it depends on your chosen yarn, tension, the thickness and height of dc stitches and the length of chains. To get a perfect piece you have to have all cells perfectly square. 

In case of shawls, it is not a big problem, on my opinion. You can block your piece and get it nearly perfect.

But in case of the square-shaped blankets, such imperfection will be very visible. Actually, you will get not a square, but some sort of a diamond (picture at right). It can be fixed (a little bit) by blocking but not much.

Making a pattern for a blanket which perfect result depends on so many factors is not a good idea. The solution which might work for me (like making the chains longer, or switch dc to tr) could not be suitable for a fellow crocheter, who has a different tension or using a different yarn.

The second option is working in the round, which faces the same problems. Your piece will tighten in the center and have the flared (too wide) edges/sides. This option works for smaller motifs, but the larger your motif turns out, the more is its deformation.

The last option is working in rows. This is the simplest (but boring, maybe :) way of making the large and accurate piece in the filet crochet technique. And it requires much simpler blocking: you have to either stretch your piece in width or make it longer to achieve the square shape.

I recommend using the last option since it makes the finished result much more predictable. Here is the filet chart for Zirka blanket worked in rows. Hope you find it useful and it helps you to crochet your Zirka blanket.

Happy crocheting! 

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